Moutohora, also known as Whale Island, lies nine kilometres off the coast near Whakatane. The 143-hectare island is a remnant volcanic cone which has eroded, leaving two peaks.
This is still an area of volcanic activity and there are hot springs on the island in Sulphur Valley and Sulphur and McEwans bays. Access is restricted to permit holders and approved tour parties and school groups. Permits can be obtained from the Department of Conservation office in Whakatane.
Numerous archaeological sites of both Maori and European origin have been recorded on Whale Island, including an extensive pa site on Pa Hill. The first European occupation came in the 1830's with an unsuccesful attempt to establish a shore-based whaling station. The venture failed without a single whale being captured. In 1965 Moutohora was declared a wildlife refuge and the island was bought by theNew Zealand gouvernmentin 1984. Once the goats which had been introduced to the island were eradicated, a planting programme began.
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Moutohora is now covered with a fantastic mosaic of pohutukawa, mahoe, kanuka, bracken fern and grassland. There are 190 native and 110 introduced trees and plant species on the island. Whale island today is completely free of animals like goats, rats, mice, cats and rabbits which previously devastated the native plants and animals.
It is a haven for rare birds now, including a breeding colony of Oi, the grey faced petrel or northern muttonbird. Little blue penguins, the threatened New Zealand dotterel and variable oystercatcher also breed on the island. Occasional visitors are the threatened Caspian tern, the North Island kaka and the New Zealand falcon.
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